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  • in reply to: Diagram of BMC 1.5 Cooling System #9618

    This (IMHO) is the best type of strainer : Vetus , with nice big strainer, and transparent cover to see the water flow, and any weed , etc. that may have been sucked up.

    https://www.asap-supplies.com/search?query=vetus+water+strainer

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    in reply to: Diagram of BMC 1.5 Cooling System #9617

    More details of the engine block pump. There are different models: see the listings from ASAP

    Spares are available, notably from ASAP supplies : https://www.asap-supplies.com/search?query=BMC+1.5d+water+pump

    As for the raw water strainer, that has usually attached to the inlet seacock. Over the years, that could have been removed or replaced by something else. Next reply will show you what I have on my MW 27.

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    in reply to: Diagram of BMC 1.5 Cooling System #9613

    This is the primary water pump that is on the front of the engine block, to circulate the antifreeze solution around the cylinders, cylinder head etc. to send it to the heat exchanger which is combined with the exhaust manifold. The “impeller” on that is cast iron, and does not require servicing. This setup is very similar to Austin Mini engines, and even closer to MGA 1500. That is driven by the same belt as the altenator. More to follow with extract from the parts manual.

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    in reply to: Mast gate #9604

    Please explain a bit more : any photos ? By « Mast Gate », do you mean the mast pivot point at the mast step to attach it to the deck? On my MW27, there is not the traditional «Tabernacle » galvanised or stainless steel cradle with 2 big bolts, but it is a perfectly safe arrangement.

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    in reply to: Engine Exhaust. #9585

    The loop should go up almost to the top of the transom, well above the waterline before coming back down to the exhaust outlet fitting, in fact above the level of the highest waves that you can imagine that could ever try to catch up with the boat.  If not, when sailing, there is a risk of water getting back into the exhaust system, and eventually flooding the engine.
    once running, the pressure created by the exhaust gas easily blows out the water from the cooling system which is injected into the exhaust just after the engine, AS LONG AS the diameter of the silencer, and the outlet tubing has been correctly sized to suit the engine. All engine manufacturers give guidance on that in the installation manual. The photo is of a typical installation, but using a commercial type of gooseneck shaped secondary silencer, instead of a loop of hose.

    in reply to: Rowan Crown 24 in East Anglia? #9581

    On our FaceBook page, in April, there was an offer for a Rowan 8m

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    in reply to: ROOKIE MW27 owner desperately seeking documentation #9512

    Standard water storage was port and starboard under the cushions in the fwd. cabin, using flexible tanks. The filler pipe came up through the hanging locker ou the portside, just fwd. of the main bulkhead.

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    in reply to: ROOKIE MW27 owner desperately seeking documentation #9511

    From the photo of the hull, no doubt : that is a Macwester 27 series 1. The date 1974 would be correct.
    I can imagine 2 possibilities to explain the alternative interior layout :
    At that time, there was strong demand for boats (and especially for the MW27, of course ), so the yard was working at the limit of capacity possible with the space in the workshops for fitting out, but the GRP moulding shop had a bit of spare capacity, so quite a few boats were sold and delivered as hull and deck assembly, with ballast and rudder fitted, and the main bulkhead bonded In place. The customer ( or his boatyard), would do all the cabin and bunk furniture, etc.
    Otherwise perhaps a previous owner decided that he didn’t like the original setup, and ripped it up ?
    A few years later, there was an alternative layout, with port and starboard settee bunks/seats, and a central table.

    in reply to: ROOKIE MW27 owner desperately seeking documentation #9507

    In 1975/76, the Series 2 was developed: hull, keels and rig were unchanged. The deck moulding was substantially modified, with the toe-rails moulded GRP instead of screwed-on wood; GRP moulded flush-fitting forehatch, cockpit coaming and “garage” for the main hatch. The aft-deck  hatches were also streamlined. I have mislaid the full revised sales brochure, but this was the flyer insert. Note that the standard engine was now a diesel, instead of the Stuart-Turner 10hp two-stroke!

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    in reply to: ROOKIE MW27 owner desperately seeking documentation #9506

    For the 1973 Earls Court Boat Show, the brochure was re-vamped, with much better photos of the boat sailing. (Sailing much faster, with sails perfectly trimmed ‘cos yours truly was at the helm!)

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    in reply to: ROOKIE MW27 owner desperately seeking documentation #9505

    This was the first sales brochure of the first version of the MW 27

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    in reply to: Sail plan Macwester 27 #9484

    Hi Greg

    All versions of MW27 had the same sail plan. Jeckells are the historic suppliers for Macwesters, and they have all the dimensions etc. If you are a paid up member of the Association, ask for a special quote!
    In the technical forum you should find the specifications, should you be preference for a local sailmaker. Just one caveat: 50 years on, it’s worth checking that the mast is the original IYE , so that you get the correct sliders for the luff track.

    in reply to: Topping up fuel tank for winter #9447

    Further thoughts: the reason for leaving tanks full in the winter was to prevent water condensation on the inside of the (untreated mild steel) fuel tanks, as classic diesel is a diluted oil, that protects the metal.
    I have no idea if the new blended diesel still provides the same protection.

    in reply to: Topping up fuel tank for winter #9446

    I agrée about the issue of the current policy of blending with bio ingredients, which are known to attract moisture, which increases the risk of bacterial growth.
    As 99% of the volume of diesel sold goes into road and other transport things, most of which use up and refill their tank every few days or weeks, they hardly ever suffer from “diesel bug”. If the pollution levels are reduced as a result of the biodiesel use, then I suppose that it can be claimed that it is the right thing to do.
    Due to the fact that auxiliary engines in sailing boats use 0.0000(0?0?)% of production of diesel fuel, it’s pretty unlikely that the refineries and distribution will want to continue to supply “straight” fuel.
    Conclusion is that we will have to rely on using the proprietary additives that are available from reputable sources, or perhaps (as I do), drain my tank every spring, and come to an agreement with a friend who still has an oil-fired central heating boiler. I then fill up with fresh diesel from the local service station.
    That is feasible with the 50 litre tank on my MW 27, but would be be more complicated with a bigger boat, especially if with twin tanks.

    in reply to: Blocked bilge pipe #9440

    On my previous 1976 Mk2 MW27, there was a 15mm plastic tube glass fibred inside the hull, that went from the bottom of the chain locker to the inside of the skeg, under the stern tube , behind the engine, not far from the suction tube for the bilge pump. It was in one length , and was intended only to drain the water that would come from the wet anchor chain.
    There was no connection from the deepest part of the bilge under the cabin floor. If any water got in there, or into the recesses where the keel bolts are, that had to be removed with a sponge and bucket ( or a portable bilge pump).
    The cockpit floor drains are also a totally separate system.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 69 total)