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Hi.
There was a recent article in the spring 2023 MOA Journal. If you search “Sugar Scoop” it and other articles will appear. My concern is although Sugar Scoop Sterns improve sail/motoring performance, pontoon access and could be good for swimming, the extra length would add to my mooring fee and potentially be a concern in a following sea by scooping the waves. I suppose it all depends on what type of mooring you have and where you sail.
The two eyes are next to my Genoa track and was thinking the eyes may have been part of a previous arrangement to secure the Genoa sheet at the midship location.
I don’t have a gate and use a slide stopper to keep the slides from dropping out. See photo
However, if someone else knows of a supplier of a suitable gate that fits I would also be interested.
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I have the same arrangement on Cathy. As Chris says you will need to get it checked out on your boat, but mine is tensioned on the genoa stay allowing the inner front stay to be released. When not in use I keep the inner stay tensioned, but when sailing I release the inner stay at deck level and bring it back to mast so making tacking the genoa easier.
Does your bowsprit have a Bobstay to counter the upward force?
All the best
Peter
Hi Michael
You may be best measuring the sails you have as rigging has often been replaced/ modified. Although there are many sailmakers out there Jeckells ( see add on back of journal) have the standard sizes and from experience produce good quality sails. Sometimes you can get older sails recut/ refurbished at less cost.
let us know how you get on
Peter
I had the same problem with my gear box. My stir up pump drained the oil from the engine. I then added oil to the engine and all went fine until I set off. The stir up pump had also drained the gear box oil which is separate. If it’s the same as mind you need to check the gear box oil level and fill to required level. Then all should function
Thanks Geoff. I have already been able to drain the free water away as the 1 inch hole is at the base of the bilge keel at its front end. I agree the ballast now needs to be left to dry out before it is resealed, but to what length should I go to treat the iron ballast. Article 198 suggests drilling extra holes in the keel and flushing with fresh water to remove the salt and then using a hair dryer. However, I would be concerned that running additional water through the ballast would cause the iron to further rust and expand more than any salt residual. Are there any alternatives that I should be considering, like flushing with a stabilising solvent ( if such a thing exists) or filling the voids with resin, before it is professionally resealed.
Hi Pat
I think you have got me mixed up with Paul’s approach, who has used the PVC soffit boarding, not me.
I agree it looks great and if I was needing to do it again I think I would be considering using a PVC option in the saloon. However, in some areas, like in the cabins, the surface needs to flex both ways, so would like to know Paul how these areas have been covered. <span style=”text-align: center;”>Peter</span>
Thanks Paul
Yes. Every time I open the gate the rail sags and the fenders have to be readjusted. Another job to be added to my winter to do list.
Thanks Jan. That quite interesting. Much further back than I had been considering, but much easier to use directly from the cockpit. I will have to do a few trials when against the pontoon using the existing deck furniture.
I also notice you have braces on your rail stanchions, which I was also considering adding.Some years ago I used a white car liner with sponge backing. I followed the pattern of liner previously used and glued directly to the boat shell. The exceptions were the flat areas where I mounted the liner on hardboard and screwed to shell. However, I had a section of board I want to replace and used a soft play mat instead of the boarding, which has provided better insulation.
I had considered carpet tiles as they mould well to the shell, but as they are difficult to clean and are absorbent so have a tendency to go mouldy.
The most difficult thing was cleaning off the old lining sponge which had powdered and was not easy to stick too unless it is first all removed.
Thanks Paul. I read an article that says the midship cleat is best placed on the broadest part of the boat as yours appears to be. Another article however suggests a pontoon trial should be used to determine the best position. By first loosening bow and stern warps, a temporary warp secured at various locations midship should be trialed with the motor running gently with rudder turning the stern gently into pontoon. Has anyone tried this approach?
